Mahé and Praslin Shopping
Shopping in the Seychelles is deliciously refreshing. There
are no megamalls, nor are there swathes of international chains
and designer labels. Instead, the islands' retail operations
are truly therapeutic, selling genuinely local items, and
business is carried on in a laid-back fashion with courteous
and informed chatter surrounding buying and selling.
Some galleries and boutiques cluster together in Victoria,
but in general they are scattered about the rest of Mahé
as well as Praslin and La Digue. Most shops are open from
Monday to Friday, from 08:00 to 17:00 (most close for lunch
from 12:00 - 13:00), and on Saturday from 08:00 to 12:00.
What to buy
Rather as Gaugin sailed to Tahiti in search of inspiration,
many artists have been intrigued by the natural beauty of
the Seychelles and settled here to follow their calling. Many
work from studios which double as retail outlets, so visitors
can often meet the painters, sculptors or craftspeople in
person. A very broad definition of local handicrafts would
run from soap to liquor to a souvenir of the archipelago's
stunning beaches - bottles filled with coloured sand.
Where to Buy
Mahé
The first - and in some cases the only - port of call for
many visitors is Camion Hall in Albert Street, Victoria, a
one-stop handicrafts centre that stops well short of being
a tourist trap. Kreol Or (Tel: 34 45 51) is a prime
example of the temptations here - with creative designs using
indigenous materials such as tiger cowry and oyster shells
and a collection of 18-carat gold jewellery.
A marvellous array of South African diamonds, as well as
less pricey gifts, is displayed in the French colonial surrounds
of Kenwyn House (Francis Rachel Street; Tel: 22 44
40). A short walk away, the shady cool of the Fiennes Esplanade
(Tel: 32 31 51) is home to a number of small arts and crafts
shops.
The International Conference Centre houses Le Comet
(Tel: 71 65 07) where Seychellois artist, Allen Gervais Comettant
(who works as a graphic designer for the government) sells
his original abstract paintings, made employing techniques
he devised while studying in China.
Outside Victoria, inspired by the colours and shapes of the
Seychelles' flora and fauna, Sharon and Les Masterson turn
out beautiful stained glass at their studio, Thoughts
(Bel Air Road; Tel: 32 12 54).
At La Marine (Domaine de Val de Prés, Au Cap;
Tel: 37 51 52) a team of young craftsmen, working to plans
from naval museums, breathe life into models of historic ships.
The Potters' Cooperative (Union Vale, SIDEC Industrial Zone;
Tel: 32 13 78) specialises in handcrafted ceramics that include
both gifts and household items. A slightly smaller operation,
Later Rouz (Domaine de Val des Prés; Tel: 37 60 94)
is equally imaginative.
Two outlets offer some memorable souvenirs in the shape of
home-brewed liquor. Renato Longobardi, who was trained by
Trappist monks in Rome, produces spirits made from citronelle,
coconut and cinnamon at Spirit Artisanal Seychelles
(Union Vale; Tel: 32 45 56). At Trois Frères Distillery
(Providence Industrial Estate; Tel: 60 14 70/1/2) they distil
Takamaka rum according to the original d'Offay family recipe.
Filling bottles with coloured sand started as a hobby for
Giovanni di Maio, but it has turned into a thriving business.
No two DiLu Magic Bottle designs are the same, as the sands
are layered forming their own unique patterns. (At Beau Vallon;
tel 71 32 28).
Kreolfleurage Parfums (North East Point; Tel: 24 13
29) is the only perfume manufacturer in the Indian Ocean,
and was founded by Dagmar Ehlert in 1988. Her unique range
of products includes perfumes, perfumed lotions and soap produced
from a base of essential oils from the region and further
afield.
Silkwater Graphics (Tel: 41 04 55) produces a wide
range of products but its glasswork - which includes cards,
photo frames, wine bottles and mouse pads - is most eye-catching.
John Bouzin also works with glass, in his case mirror painting,
with subjects ranging from landscapes to prominent buildings
in the Seychelles. His studio is at Nageon Estate, Pointe
Larue (Tel: 57 36 89) but examples of his work are also displayed
at Artisans des Îles in Camion Hall, Victoria.
For the best part of the last quarter century Elisabeth Ragain
has been depicting the wonders of the Seychelles through her
watercolours, which are elegantly displayed at The Natural
Art Gallery (Grand Anse; 55 80 41).
The sea views and coastlines of Baie Lazare find their way
into the watercolours of Donald Adelaide (Tel: 59 30
38 / 36 10 67), who has been working from his studio here
for the past two decades. Another water colourist, Andrew
Gee (Tel: 36 16 49 / 71 26 77), who trained at St Martin's
School of Art in London, works nearby.
Antonio FilippinItalian-born sculptor Antonio Filippin
(Anse Gouvernement, Baie Lazare; Tel: 51 09 77/ 36 18 12)
produces complex carvings from coral and wood, which express
his philosophy of the harmony of life.
Colbert Nourrice (Domaine de Val des Près,
Au Cap; Tel: 37 59 52) is generally reckoned to be one of
the most promising young artists in the archipelago, having
developed a narrative style of painting using signs, symbols
and motifs framed to form a striking tapestry of linear images
reminiscent of Egyptian hieroglyphics.
Finally, there is the highly contemporary artist, Egbert
Marday (La Misère; Tel: 37 84 56) who produces
paintings in acrylics, oils, collages or mixed media, and
constructed from wood, plaster of Paris, metal, clay and resin.
Praslin
The Black Pearl Shop (Amitié; Tel: 23 31 50)
is justly renowned far beyond the shores of Praslin for its
selection of high-class jewellery and other exotic creations
fashioned from locally-cultivated pearls from the Seychelles
Black Lip Oyster.
The self-explanatory Gallery & Art (Anse Volbert;
Tel: 23 21 70) at the Café des Arts displays
paintings, sculptures and crafts from some of the island's
best-known artists including Michael Adams, Sheila Markham
and Christine Harter, as well as jewellery and hand-made wooden
and coconut artefacts.
At the Casino de Îles (Côte D'Or; Tel:
23 29 56) the George Camille Art Gallery houses etchings,
watercolours, pencil and pastel drawings, silk paintings and
acrylic and relief collages by Camillem capturing the colour
and spirit of Creole life. The artist has exhibited extensively
since 1983 in London, Paris, Martinique, Mauritius and Réunion
as well as the Seychelles.
La Digue
On Anse Reunion, Barbara Jenson (Tel: 23 44 06) works
in many different media including watercolour, gouache and
acrylic on paper and canvas, as well as varnish and pigments
on aluminium sheet. A small gallery adjoins her studio.
Nearby, Green Gecko (Tel: 23 44 02) is another outlet
for the work of George Camille (see Praslin section).
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